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Reads Nursery are the National Collection Holders of Citrus, Figs and Grapevines for the National Council for the Conservation of Plants and Gardens NCCPG. |
NATIONAL COLLECTION HOLDERS - FIGS
In 1988 our collection of figs was granted National Status by the 'National Council for the Conservation of Plants & Gardens' whose aims are to foster the preservation of plant varieties from the past, many of which are no longer grown commercially, but are still very garden-worthy. If you have one that we do not - please let us know.
A native of Persia, the fig has long been a coveted fruit. It was grown in Britain by the Romans with the vine. Cardinal Pole introduced 'White Marseille' to Lambeth Palace in 1525 and his trees are still flourishing. The flavour of fresh figs compares with any tropical fruit, although this succulent crop is decidedly easier to grow. A restricted root run is essential for fruiting plants. Figs are ideal in tubs or pots as bushes or half standards, and as such should be given inside winter protection when they can produce 2 crops annually. If a greenhouse is not available a garage or garden shed from December to March will do. Grown for their architectural impact in the garden they add an air of distinction with large sculptured leaves. All our figs are container grown. Plant in John Innes No.3 compost.
THE CULTIVATION OF THE FIG TREE
Figs perform at least two roles in the garden, providing exotic succulent fruit for the table and the usual benefit of exciting architectural shapes, whether grown in tubs or in the-ground. Once established, figs are quite hardy although some shoots may be damaged in severe winters; however, those in pots can be protected in a shed or cold greenhouse and those on garden walls can be covered with bracken or shade netting quite easily.
A few varieties may be grown as bushes in the open and because of this seem to ripen their wood earlier and survive frost quite well. A small commercial fig orchard was still operating in the 1950's in West Suffolk, where the soil was heavy and the winters quite cold. There was minimal winter damage, even at -4°F during the arctic winter of 1946/47 (36°F of frost).
Figs planted in the garden will produce one crop each season, those planted in greenhouses, or in pots which are taken into greenhouses in August and kept there until April can produce two crops when the season is sunny and warm. Figs require the best possible site in the garden to take advantage from the sun's heat and, with some winter protection, will crop regularly for centuries if looked after.
FIGS IN POTS
Start figs in 12 inch (30 cm) pots and progress up to 24 inch (60 cm) or larger, providing you can move it! Wood or clay pots are better than plastic; they are cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Plant your Fig 1-2" deeper than it was before.
Use soil based John Innes No. 3 with crocks (broken tiles/pots) in the bottom to provide adequate drainage. Soil composts should be firmed down well, remember to leave at least an inch (2.5 cm) at the top to allow for watering (more in larger pots). Water well at planting. If the plant has a single stem, cut back to about 9" (22cm). If a branched bush, take out growing tips of shoots (top bud).
Watering should start on a regular basis when growth starts (March or thereabouts). A little at first, but daily when full of foliage and fruit in hot weather in July to October. We feed with high potash (tomato) fertilizer from April to end of crop. This is done weekly. As shoots grow, take out the growing tips after 4-5 leaves (about mid- June).
Foliar feed with seaweed every 2 weeks or so ,this will strengthen the leaves and increase their size also protecting the plant against pests and diseases.
During December take fig in for the winter. Keep the soil just moist. Potting-on (March) to a larger size should be undertaken annually if growth is normal. We go up 2-3" (5-8cm) at a time until the final size is reached. Each time, remove the crocks from the bottom of the root-ball and put in the new pot before adding the plant and compost. Plant 1-2" deeper than before. Water in well. Re-potting back into the same pot requires the removal of about 20% of the old rootball with a sharp knife, moving the crocks as before and replacing the plant,1-2" deeper than before, adding new compost to fill up, tamping down and watering in well. This is usually done every two years. Pruning in late March ,before growth starts, consists of cutting out any dead wood or dieback to clean white healthy wood. Remove tips of young shoots. Remove any thin weakly branches, just keeping 'thick' ones which are the fruit bearers. When growing well there will not be many of the former. As mentioned before, take out growing tips of the new seasons shoots around the middle to end of June. At leaf-fall, remove all remaining figs larger than small peas. This is important: leaving them will delay or reduce the next season's crop and can also give rise to dieback.
FIGS AS FANS IN GARDEN BORDERS
Allow 8' - 15' (2.5 - 4.8 m) horizontally and 6' - 10' (1.9 - 3m) in height. Whentrained against walls or fences restrict roots as for Figs in Greenhouse Borders (see below).
Plant in the same way. Cultural treatment is also similar except for:
Winter protection is necessary particularly in Northern locations and is best achieved using bracken (which sheds water easily) held on by pea netting, or by 2 to 3 layers of windbreak type netting tied over the plant. Polythene is not recommended. Cover in December and remove, depending on area/weather, mid - late March.
FIGS AS BUSHED IN GARDEN BORDERS
Figs as bushes in garden boarders and planted in the open do not need root restriction on heavy soil, but on lights soils I would make a box 4' x 4' x 2' deep of paving slabs and proceed as for Figs in Greenhouse Borders (below). The cultural treatment will be similar to the above but when pruning, an open bush shape is preferred, annual mulching is important and on heavy ground this should extend to the branch line. Allow 12' or so (3.9m) between plants as the minimum for 'orchard' planting.
Watering. Most loss of crop, dropped-off or dry figs, is caused by lack of water. From the middle of May, all figs should be watered when soil becomes dry and this must continue in dry spells at least to July, keeping an eye on them right up to picking around August. Pot grown figs will need additional water from May - October, daily in very hot weather.
FIGS AS FANS IN GREENHOUSE BORDERS
Allow 8' - 15' (2.5 - 4.8 m) horizontally and 6' - 10' (1.9 - 3m) in height per plant. Root restriction is required. Construct a box of 2' square (60cm) paving slabs 4' x 2' (120 cm x 60 cm) against a wall or side of greenhouse, leaving 3 inches (8cm) showing above ground. Put 9 inches (24 cm) of rammed brick rubble in the bottom and fill up with good soil such as John Innes No 3. When planting loosen root ball carefully around the outside and plant 1-2"deeper than before. Water in well. Pruning. Treat as for Figs in Pots but, on a wall, the plant should be fan trained on horizontal wires 12 inches (30cm) apart. Feeding. Treat as for Figs in Pots plus mulch with 3 inches (8cm) of well-rotted FYM or garden compost at leaf fall and top dress in March with 2 oz per square yard (sq m) 'Growmore' or 'Blood, Fish and Bone' over the root area. Do not allow mulch or fertilizer to touch stem.
Watering should start on a regular basis when growth starts March or thereabouts. A little at first but daily when full of foliage and fruit in hot weather from July to October. PESTS - All Figs About the only serious pest is Red Spider Mite which appears under the foliage. It can be controlled by regular spraying under the leaves with water and by foliar feeding with seaweed ,or by predators/ chemicals.
Vine Weevil can attack plants in pots, but is seldom a problem with plants in the ground. We use predators for effective control as a preventative measure.
Eriyophyid Mites can sometimes be a nuisance and the damage they cause encourages Alternaria fungus to produce reddish spots under the leaves. The mites are easily controlled using an acaricide such as 'rape seed oil'. Use a fungicide at the same time to remove the fungus infection.
Fig Rust-can be a problem in wet years causing mottling of the leaves, copper fungicide will correct this but follow the instructions on the label
WHEN TO PICK
Figs are ripe when the stalk bends and the fruit hang down. The 'eye' at the bottom will open and a drop of sugar appears. Try to beat the birds! A net helps, and should be put on well in advance of ripening. Blackbirds are the gourmet fruit eaters of the feathered world.
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